Last week I mentioned my thrill re:
a biopic on Marco Pierre White happening; turns out I missed Bourdain a few months back yammering about the 25th anniversary of White's classic book
(which I've never read),
White Heat:
Ten years before my book Kitchen Confidential supposedly ‘ripped the lid off’ the grim realities of the restaurant business, White Heat
brimmed with casual admissions of what we all knew as chefs: that it
was a hard, brutal, repetitive business. That even if we could afford
it, we were unlikely to be welcome in our dining rooms. That we were
powerless without money. That only by being extraordinary – or at least
convincing people that we were extraordinary – could we hope to live
like our customers.
White Heat depicted a great chef who
was heading straight at that thing we’d all seen: burn out. He knew it.
Was conflicted by it. But it wasn’t slowing him down. He had somewhere
to go and he’d figure it out when he got there.
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